For most woodworkers, the table saw is most used machine in the shop so it stands to reason that among the most popular and useful jigs are for the table saw. One of the nice features of most table saws is the ability of the saw to angle the blade, often up to 45 degrees, for special angled cuts. The problem with many table saws, especially saws that are older is the mechanism that allows the blade to be angled is often hard to move, and at best, you still need to get down on your hands and knees and crank the blade over ... make a cut or two, then crank the blade vertical again and make sure it is absolutely square to the table saw's deck. Not difficult, but tedious and time consuming and often for only one or two cuts ... and hopefully they are perfect, because who wants to repeat this process?
Watch this and other similar videos on YouTube: https://youtu.be/p5MQrAKLqNw
In this video I am finally getting around to making a jig that can be popped on top the table saw, trapped by the fence so it is safe and adjustable to use and quick and easy to make angled cuts without having to fuss around with moving the blade ... and here are the dimensions ...
For mine, I used construction grade plywood that I have had lying around my shop for years. This jig works so well I am considering getting some better quality plywood and re-making it. You can make yours any size you like and of course your table saw fence will likely be different to those dimensions you will need to add yourself.
I started off with 2 chunks of 3/4 inch plywood, one for the base and one for the top. Both need to be absolutely flat. Warped or arched wood will cause no end of problems.
Base - Plywood 3/4" x 11" x 24-5/8"
Top - Plywood 3/4" x 10-1/2 x 24-1/2
* Norice the top is slighly narrower so it will tilp up and down without rubbing against the sides
Sides - Plywood - 3/4 x 11" wide and 10-3/4" high
Fence trapping wood - to suite your fence
You will also need a pair of but hinges, larger is better, I used 2-1/2"
** One thing I did not do, but will do on a future re-build would be to cut an angle cut of the front portion of the sides. This will make the jig easier to use and the wood, easier to hold or to clamp.
*** Another thing I have not done yet, but will do, is to ensure the end of the jig remain firm and vertical by attaching a right angle bracket to each side, glued and screwed, this will make the jig solid and last for ever.
In terms of assembly, I did give some thought to this process and realized that making the base and table saw fence trapping attachment first would be easiest. Next I attached the moveable top piece.
Once the top was on, I used small block of wood to mark an arc on the inside of each side of the jig. This way the arc would be consistent on both sides.
As you see on the video, finding an angle is easy when you do it from the side area of the the jig, then I used a clamp to secure that angle on either side and mark it against the arc.
To ensure consistency and make sure the moveable top was always at the correct location I used good quality shelf brackets and collars to make sure the the top would self center against each shelf bracket, and that way, all I has to do was to make sure I drilled holes on either side of the jig and insert the collars ... after inserting the shelf brackets, the top would automatically be self centered.
When it came time to using the jig, I tried a couple of angled cuts which worked fine, then I could see that by simply flipping the angled cuts over, I could re-saw them for splines which can make angled mitre cuts much stronger and if they are visible, add a nice level of detail to your woodworking project.
All in all, a cool, easy to make and very useful jig
Copyright - Colin Knecht
woodworkweb
Updated
David Briggs sent these pictures of what he did to update this jig. Thanks David !!
