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Before starting any project, it’s important to take a few minutes to make sure all of your equipment has been properly adjusted. Your table saw will give the best results if the miter slot and the rip fence are adjusted parallel to the blade. If either of these are not parallel, your cuts and your finished work will be lower in quality, and the risk of kickback will be increased. Here’s how to make sure your table saw blade is aligned to the miter slot.
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Disconnect the saw from the power source: A common sense step that is so easily forgotten when we’re excited to start a new project
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Wood routers have been in use for the better part of 50 years, but for new woodworkers they still represent a bit of mystery. Part of the reason for this is that routers are capable of so many different kinds jobs and there is really no other tool that can replace the work they do. Another part of the confusion comes from the styles of wood routers which is either “fixed base” or “plunge” which always prompts the question, which is best?
I am frequently asked about routers, what brands, what types, what features and in general terms I tell people that a plunge router will do everything a fixed base router can do, and more. Like everything there are trade-offs and the disadvantage with plunge routers is they are bigger and bulkier and actual plunge feature is not really often used so it's really nice to have both. Such is the case with Canadian Tire's exclusive “Maximum” dual base wood router. I comes complete with both a plunge and fixed base and is quick and easy to switch between them.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/MAXIMUM I must say, whoever designed this router, knew their way around wood routers. It's a nice design and has all the features that anyone would need in a router package.
The router itself is an 11 AMP, 2 HP unit which means it can handle both 1/4” and 1/2” bits which is important for anyone who wants to use the larger bits for things like making cabinet doors, windows and many of the other larger bits for making things like crown mouldings, base boards and similar items. Almost all of these bigger bits are available only in 1/2” shank size and require routers with higher horse power to drive them.
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New woodworkers are often confused by the difference between jointers and planers. I know this because I get asked what should I get first, a jointer or a planer, and my answer has not changed on that topic, in my opinion the jointer is probably the best choice for most people, and if you have planer, you will still need a jointer. I often wonder if one of the reasons for that is because we frequently call "thickness planers" the shortened term of "planer" and "jointer" terms is shortened from "surface jointer".
I have seen people trying to "plane" wood on a jointer and what happens most of the time is you end up with wood that is wedge shaped. Similarly, jointing on the planer, is possible in some instances but you need to know how to do it in order to get usable wood.
The best and safest woods to joint using a planer are thicker boards, that will need to be long enough to satisfy the safety aspects of your planer. Most planers need wood to be at least 14" - 16" long, otherwise you risk the wood getting turned around inside the planer and either damaging the machinery and or the user. Something well worth avoiding.
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Despite that fact that woodworking in one form or another has been around since the dawn of man, and word "traditional" is thrown around like mainstay in the industry, there are always new tools, techniques and ideas being introduced and adapted literally every week. Many years ago, when working in another industry I discovered that a company down the street from us could provide us with some promotional products, including some very cool clear glass coffee mugs with our logo engraved on them. When I went to place the order, they showed me the machine that would be used. It was of course a laser etcher and I had never seen one before. That year was around 1995 ... and I wanted one of those machines from the first time I ever saw it. They were, and still are expensive for the commercial versions and I could never really justify the expense ... but move forward 20 years and technology has changed and now there are "hobby" or "home" versions of laser engravers that are affordable for non-commercial use, and the one that I am using was provided by www.banggood.com
I received the engraver in large cardboard box, well packaged in plastic packing and all in pieces, which is what I expected. Because of such a large international customer base there are NO instructions in the box, you go to their website to watch the video for assembly and how to download and use the software that drives the etcher. Think it took me ...