Patio Server

One of the best features of being a woodworker is that fact that you can re-make things, alter designs or just make things from pictures or ideas. What an amazing thing to be do, I guess that's where part of the art form of woodworking comes from. I often wish I had some of those creative abilities. For the most part, I need to at least look at a picture of something before I can create it, which is precisely what happened with this build.

I liked the design and the functionality of having and using a patio server ... what a handy little item for anyone who does some entertaining among family and friends. A perfect way to hold and transport food and drink around a patio, sundeck or back yard get-together.

I started off by making a rough model, just to get a sense of comparative sizes of the parts that might be needed. Once I had that, the next real measurement I needed was ... what would be comfortable height for the handle to be at and with this knowledge the build began ...

One of the first things you need to obtain are the wheels, either purchase them or make them from wood. The reason for this is that the diameter of the wheels can slightly change some of the positioning of where holes are drilled in order to ensure the holding tray is level. I happened to find some very nice smaller wheels at swap meet or garage sale some time in the past. When I find little items like these I often purchase them because I am sure I will find a use for them in the future, which proved to be the case with these. I thought about making wheels from wood, even though I already had these plastic one, but my concern is that this was going to be outside and rained on from time to time which would make the wheels expand and possibly bind. If I make the holes too big so they won't bind, the wheels don't roll correctly when the wood dries and shrinks. In the end, non-wood, even though I hate to admit it, for this kind of thing, works best.

Once you have the wheels the rest of the components that I used are as follows ...

2 - Wheels 4-1/4" diameter (between 4 and 4-1/2 should work fine)

2 - Long stretchers 3/4" x 2" x 48"

2 - Short stretchers 3/4" x 2" x 36"

2 - Cross members for inside frame 3/4" x 3" x 17-1/2"

2 - Cross members for outside frame 3/4" x 3" x 18-1/4"

Top Tray

2 - Tray Lower Rail3/4" x 2" x 15-7/8"

10 - Trap Top Slats - 3/8" x 1-1/2" X 20"

I made the tray top by cutting 3/4" wood in half, I did this by using one of my Freud 7-1/4" 24 tooth circular saw blades. These saw blades have a very thin kerf (blade width) which works perfectly for cutting these boards in half and leaving as much wood as possible.

When assembling the tray, you will want to have slight overhang of the top slats on each side of the tray, this is so the tray top will next into the inside frame when folded. You may need to secure both sides of the the outside slats with screws as the pressure when folding may cause the slats to come loose in not fastened securely.

Other Consideratioins

The placement of the cross members for the inner frame - top = 1" from end of short stretcher end, the lower one is not critical, about 5" up from the bottom of the short stretcher is good.

Placement of the upper cross member for the long stretchers = 11-3/4" from top.

You will also need to be aware of where the cross members are placed on each of the frames if you want it to fold properly. I had to take one of mine off and re-position it. See Picture below for placement positions.

Positioning of the pivot points for drilling holes is 21" from the bottom of the inside frame, the position of the outside frame will depend on the size of wheels you have. You will need to temporarily install the wheels to and align the bottom stretchers to locate the pivot point hole placement for the outside stretchers.

Good luck with your build