OK. I am going to use a dye on a 1/4sawn WO mirror I made for my Wife. Like others I really want it to pop. I have some samples with the dye on it & tried a Wipe On poly clear gloss. 3 coats & no pop.
I read somewhere that I can water poly over oil poly but can not find the article. Am I remembering this correctly?? If so what are the steps? Just some 320 sanding with a wipe down after the WO poly has dried for 24hrs?
Or should I just go straight water based poly & not look back?
BTW-- This wood was salvaged trim work. Absolutely beautiful 1/4sawn WO.
Hi Glen ... sorry to hear your project is not turning out the way you want. Many of us have been down this road so you are in a huge club now.
I am not sure about putting water poly over oil poly, off hand I would say no. It might look like it takes but in a few weeks it will likely begin to peel or flake ... just my guess. If you really need to know phone the manufacturer ... most are amazingly good at giving answers.
It sounds like you did everything right ... used 1/4 sawn, dye, 320 girt; I would have thought poly would give it the look you were looking for, not sure what else you could have done.
Only a couple of possibles ... maybe there is something about the wood that is just not coming through, or maybe your expectation is higher than what the process can deliver ... ie, the wood, dye and top coat.
I am doubtful that now coating over top the oil is going to help, but who knows. Some times it's a guessing game and without seeing the wood in person, really hard to guess.
I really wish I had some answers for you aside from sanding everything off and starting from scratch. I have done this enough to know it take all the fun out of woodworking. Let me know how you make out ...
what immediately came to mind was that the previous finish may be the cause of your troubles. Not knowing the entire circumstances of what the previous finish was, how you removed that finish, straight scrape and sanding or chemically and the amount of wood that you removed after sanding makes it hard to quickly help you with this. If this trim has been around for the last 100 years, God only knows what was applied to it. This is extremely frustrating for us all at some point(s) but we are here to help if we can. If you could give us just a bit more info it would help I would think.
I am going to keep an eye on this thread to see what you dig up from the Manufacturer's Reps. Hopefully you will get a solution from them.
This wood had paint on most of it. I stripped the paint then neutralized it per the container. I allowed it to dry for I think it was 3 days. I have no idea what kind of paint it was. I just know it came off easily.
Then it went into the planer to go from 15/16" down to 3/4" according to the miter slot,, which is my 3/4" gauge,, on the table saw. I planed back & forth flipping the board on each pass since they were surprisingly flat with no cupping.
The piece for the shelf had some shellac over a dark stain of some sort. There was no grain showing thru at all. The finish came off very gummy & sticky. I neutralized it per the container as well. The planed it from 1 1/16" down to the same 3/4" flipping on each pass. I don't expect this piece to finish the same as the frame since it is a darker piece of wood. Therefore it was used for the shelf.
I may be expecting too much from this combo. But I'm gonna work on my scrap pieces til I get what I want. Or as close as possible. At some point I know I will be happy with it because Diane will really like it.
Thank You for your help. It is truly appreciated. I will try to get ahold of Minwax tomorrow if circumstances allow it. Otherwise it could be Monday.
my apologies for not getting back to you a little more quickly but I got tied up with work....."tis the season".
Ok, so it was an acrylic latex and a solid hide paint that was used and you did everything by the numbers just as you should have. You definitely removed enough wood to get below any type of finish penetration not that it was any amount given it was paint that was used. I am going to check on a couple of things and get back to you.
OK Glen, I do not see why you are not getting the effect you are looking for. I just looked at some test pieces I did awhile back using both the oil base and water base poly on dyed and stained test pieces so I could get a better perspective on this. I am more partial toward liking the stains and water base poly finish I get on White and Red Oak instead of the dyes I tried. That's just my own preference. As far as I can determine on the question of using a water base poly over a oil base poly is that once the oil base fully cures, it should be fine. Unfortunately, I doubt it will give you any more of the pop effect you are looking for though. I would strongly encourage you to contact minwax just completely satisfy your question of if there is some issue with compatibility.
This stuff can really make us chase our butt around in circles at times and the only cure is plain old experience and testing before we commit to a specific finish. Your wife will love it either way I am sure, so don't beat yourself up over it. Please let us know what the end results are. We are all still learning things in wood working without exception and this journey never ends. I hope this will help you.